Why New Yorkers Call This Little Sandwich Shop The City’s Best Kept Secret
Tucked away on a quiet corner of Brooklyn’s Red Hook neighborhood, Defonte’s Sandwich Shop has been a true culinary landmark since opening its doors in 1922.
For more than a century, this unassuming, family-run storefront has built a reputation for crafting what many locals proudly call the best Italian heroes in all five boroughs.
While visitors often crowd into Manhattan’s famous delis, seasoned New Yorkers know the real pilgrimage is to Defonte’s, where every sandwich is layered with tradition, authenticity, and old-world artistry. One bite is enough to understand why generations have kept this neighborhood icon thriving.
A Hidden Gem with Century-Old Roots
I stumbled upon Defonte’s during a rainy afternoon bike ride, seeking shelter and finding sandwich nirvana instead. This unassuming cornerstone of Red Hook started feeding hungry dockworkers back when the neighborhood hummed with maritime commerce.
What began as Nick Defonte’s modest bodega evolved into a sandwich institution that’s survived a century of New York’s ever-changing landscape. Three generations later, with grandson “Nicky” now at the helm, they’re still slicing meats the old-fashioned way.
The walls, lined with faded photographs and newspaper clippings, tell the story of a family that turned simple ingredients into legendary creations.
Heroes Loaded with Love—and Eggplant
Yesterday I watched in awe as the sandwich maker stacked layers of thinly-sliced prosciutto, mortadella, and provolone with the precision of a surgeon. The real magic happened when he added crispy, golden-brown fried eggplant that crackled beneath his knife.
These aren’t dainty tea sandwiches—they’re architectural marvels requiring two hands and a serious appetite. My favorite, the Nicky Special, combines hot salami, capicola, provolone, and that famous eggplant into something transcendent.
Each bite delivers a perfect balance of salt, fat, acid, and crunch that makes you close your eyes involuntarily and wonder why you’d ever eat anywhere else.
Old-School Vibe, No Frills Attached
The first time I walked in, I felt like I’d stepped through a time portal. No reclaimed wood tables or Edison bulbs here—just fluorescent lighting, simple counters, and the hypnotic rhythm of meat slicers humming in the background.
The menu board hasn’t changed in decades, and thank goodness for that. The guys behind the counter might seem gruff at first, but they light up when regulars walk in, greeting them by name and often starting their usual order before they’ve even reached the register.
This isn’t manufactured nostalgia; it’s the real deal—a place that’s never needed to reinvent itself because it got everything right the first time.
A Slice of New York Food Culture
Famous food critics and celebrity chefs whisper Defonte’s name with reverence. I once spotted Bobby Flay waiting patiently in line, just another hungry New Yorker seeking sandwich perfection.
Featured on food shows and in countless “best of” lists, Defonte’s somehow maintains its under-the-radar status despite the accolades. The shop embodies something essential about New York food culture—unpretentious excellence that values substance over style.
Unlike trendy spots with Instagram lines and $20 sandwiches, Defonte’s offers honest food at fair prices. Their heroes aren’t photogenic in the conventional sense—they’re messy, overstuffed creations made for eating, not posting.
Why the “Best Kept Secret” Label Sticks
My Brooklyn friends made me swear not to tell too many people about this place. Getting to Defonte’s requires effort—it sits in a residential-industrial pocket of Red Hook that feels worlds away from the nearest subway station.
The shop’s limited hours (they close by mid-afternoon) and cash-only policy further filter out casual visitors. You have to want it.
Perhaps the most charming aspect is how the staff treats everyone equally. I’ve watched construction workers sharing tables with Wall Street types, all united by the pursuit of sandwich excellence. This isn’t a secret because it’s exclusive—it’s a secret because finding it feels like you’ve earned membership in a delicious club.
Red Hook’s Transformation—and Its Pillar
Red Hook fascinates me—from rough-and-tumble docklands to IKEA-adjacent hotspot. Through floods, gentrification waves, and economic shifts, Defonte’s has stood unwavering, a culinary lighthouse in changing seas.
When Hurricane Sandy devastated the neighborhood in 2012, Defonte’s was among the first businesses to reopen. They fed recovery workers and neighbors alike, reinforcing their role as community cornerstone.
While artisanal chocolatiers and craft distilleries have moved in nearby, Defonte’s remains gloriously unchanged. The contrast makes it all the more special—a living museum of Brooklyn food history that happens to make the best damn sandwiches you’ll ever taste.
Secret Worth Sharing (But Only with Friends)
Last month, I finally brought my sandwich-skeptic friend from California. Watching her eyes widen at first bite was like witnessing a religious conversion.
“Why didn’t you tell me about this place sooner?” she demanded, mouth still full of potato and egg hero. I explained the unwritten rule: you only share Defonte’s with people who’ll truly appreciate it.
That’s the beautiful paradox of this place—regulars fiercely guard their beloved sandwich shop while simultaneously wanting to show it off to worthy friends. We know these mammoth, perfectly constructed heroes deserve recognition, but we also selfishly hope the lines never get too long. Some secrets are just too delicious not to share—carefully.