Texas’s Most Talked-About Brisket Isn’t Found In Austin
Let me tell you, if there’s a heaven on earth, it might just smell like Snow’s BBQ on a Saturday morning. My first inhale was like a warm, smoky hug, instantly making my early wake-up call feel entirely justified.
Standing in line, the anticipation was a palpable thing, almost as thick as the bark on their legendary brisket. When I finally held that glistening, perfectly rendered slice, expertly carved by the pitmaster herself, I knew.
One bite, and my eyes rolled back into my head. It was a revelation, an edible testament to why this Lexington gem earns its title as Texas’s most talked-about.
The Weekend Pilgrimage Worth Making
Barbecue fanatics set alarms and drive for hours to reach Snow’s BBQ at 516 Main Street in Lexington. The restaurant opens at 8 a.m. on Saturdays only-no exceptions-and closes when the meat runs out, which happens with clockwork regularity.
I remember my first visit, joining the line at 7:15 a.m. while the morning dew still clung to the grass. The parking lot already held license plates from five different states. Locals chatted with tourists, all united by the promise of transcendent brisket.
Many newcomers are shocked to discover this temple of meat operates just one day weekly in a town of roughly 1,200 people.
The Pitmaster Legend: Tootsie Tomanetz
Few figures command more respect in Texas barbecue circles than Tootsie Tomanetz. This octogenarian pitmaster has tended the pits at Snow’s since 2003, arriving well before dawn to monitor the fires with practiced precision.
Her journey to barbecue fame included decades working at City Meat Market in Giddings. Tootsie’s dedication earned her semifinalist status for James Beard Awards and a star turn on Netflix’s Chef’s Table.
Owner Kerry Bexley recognized her talent years ago and built Snow’s around her extraordinary skill. Her hands, weathered by decades of working the pits, move with the confidence that comes only from true mastery.
Brisket That Defies Expectations
The brisket at Snow’s achieves that perfect barbecue paradox: impossibly tender yet structurally sound. Each slice sports a deep crimson smoke ring beneath bark so flavorful it borders on spiritual revelation.
What separates this brisket from the Austin crowd is its consistency and depth. The smoking method combines post oak wood with unwavering patience-meats cook at low temperatures through the night and into morning.
During my second visit, a fellow diner from California took his first bite and simply closed his eyes in silent appreciation. No words needed. The meat speaks a universal language of smoke, salt, and time-honored tradition.
Beyond Brisket: Hidden Menu Treasures
While brisket steals headlines, Snow’s pork shoulder steak might be the sleeper hit. This uncommon cut receives the same reverent smoking treatment, resulting in meat that combines the best qualities of ribs and pulled pork.
Their pork ribs deliver that perfect bite-not falling off the bone (a common misconception of properly cooked ribs) but cleanly pulling away with minimal effort. The house-made sausage offers a coarse grind with a peppery finish that cleanses the palate between bites of fattier meats.
Don’t overlook the sides either. The potato salad and coleslaw provide welcome contrast to the rich meats, while pinto beans simmer with bits of brisket for extra flavor.
Texas Monthly’s Kingmaker Effect
Snow’s BBQ catapulted to fame in 2008 when Texas Monthly named it the best barbecue joint in the state. This unexpected coronation shocked barbecue enthusiasts who had never heard of the tiny Lexington establishment.
The magazine’s influence cannot be overstated. Their barbecue rankings function as a sacred text for meat-loving Texans, and Snow’s has consistently appeared near the top of these lists for over a decade.
The subsequent media attention, including features in national publications and television shows, transformed this small-town business into an international destination. Yet remarkably, Snow’s has maintained its quality and humble character despite the spotlight.
The Community Experience
Eating at Snow’s transcends mere dining-it’s a communal ritual. Strangers become friends at the outdoor picnic tables, sharing sauce and stories beneath Texas skies.
The atmosphere remains refreshingly unpretentious despite the acclaim. Kerry Bexley often mingles with customers, checking on satisfaction levels and sharing the history of his establishment. There’s something beautifully democratic about everyone waiting in the same line, from celebrities to locals.
The first time I visited, I sat beside a family celebrating their patriarch’s 80th birthday. They’d made the journey from Houston because, as his daughter explained, “Dad wanted the best brisket in Texas for his big day.” That’s Snow’s in a nutshell.
Essential Visitor Strategies
Success at Snow’s requires planning. Arrive by 7:30 a.m. if you want guaranteed meat options-later arrivals risk disappointment when favorite cuts sell out. Serious enthusiasts bring folding chairs for the wait and coolers to store any take-home treasures.
Weather matters too. Summer visits mean intense heat as the day progresses, while winter mornings can be surprisingly chilly. Dress accordingly and consider bringing water.
Most importantly, embrace the experience rather than rushing through it. The journey to Lexington, the anticipation in line, and the post-meal satisfaction are all essential components of the Snow’s pilgrimage. This isn’t fast food-it’s food worth waiting for.