The California Bakery Making Croissants That Could Fool A Parisian
I consider myself a croissant purist. Years spent in France trained my palate to expect that specific shatter, that buttery airiness-a standard I genuinely believed no California bakery could meet.
When friends raved about a tiny shop in Los Angeles, I was skeptical, even dismissive. But the moment I saw the laminated layers stacked perfectly in the window, something shifted. I didn’t just order one; I ordered two.
This bakery wasn’t trying to imitate Paris; it might actually be surpassing it. I came to question their claims, and I left ready to book a flight just to tell the French they have competition.
Meet b. patisserie
Walking down California Street in San Francisco, you might catch the scent of butter and sugar before you even spot the bakery. b. patisserie opened its doors in 2013, bringing a slice of Parisian café culture to the Bay Area. The storefront features an open pastry kitchen where customers can watch bakers fold dough and shape croissants in real time.
This salon de thé specializes in modern French-style viennoiserie, the category of laminated pastries that includes croissants and pain au chocolat. The transparent kitchen design creates a theatrical experience, turning pastry production into performance art. Visitors often linger at the counter, mesmerized by the precise movements of bakers working with delicate dough layers.
Belinda Leong’s Background
Belinda Leong didn’t stumble into pastry by accident. She honed her craft at Gary Danko in San Francisco, one of the city’s most respected fine-dining establishments. Her journey then took her across the Atlantic, where she staged in Paris and other European kitchens, absorbing techniques passed down through generations of French bakers.
After returning to California, Leong worked at Manresa before partnering with Michel Suas to launch b. patisserie. Her dedication paid off in 2018 when she and Suas won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Baker, one of the culinary world’s highest honors. That recognition cemented her status among America’s elite pastry professionals.
Why Their Croissants (And Kouign-Amann) Feel Authentically French
Authentic French viennoiserie demands patience, precision, and premium ingredients. b. patisserie checks every box, using traditional lamination techniques that create hundreds of paper-thin layers in each pastry. High-quality butter gets folded into the dough repeatedly, creating the signature flakiness that shatters with each bite.
The bakery’s kouign-amann has become legendary, drawing national press attention for its perfect caramelization and interior structure. Pastry critics consistently praise how closely the texture and flavor mirror what you’d find in Brittany, the French region where kouign-amann originated. Every batch receives close attention to ensure the exterior caramelizes without burning while the inside stays tender and buttery.
Signature Pastries To Highlight
First-time visitors often freeze at the counter, overwhelmed by golden pastries that all look impossibly good. The Classic Croissant (Croissant Nature) serves as the perfect introduction, showcasing pure technique without distractions. Chocolate lovers gravitate toward the Chocolate Croissant, where dark chocolate batons melt into buttery layers.
Almond Croissants arrive filled with frangipane and topped with sliced almonds, offering a sweeter option for those who want something more decadent. The famous Kouign-Amann remains the star, available in regular and seasonal variations that rotate throughout the year. Weekend specials like banana bread and bostock appear on the menu, giving regulars new reasons to return.
Baking Philosophy And Technique
Michel Suas brings serious credentials to the partnership as founder of the San Francisco Baking Institute. His technical expertise shapes every aspect of production, from dough temperature to final finishing touches. The shop emphasizes careful lamination, ensuring each fold creates distinct layers that puff dramatically during baking.
Temperature control matters enormously when working with butter-rich dough, and the team monitors conditions constantly. For kouign-amann, achieving the signature caramelization requires precise timing and heat management. Combination of technical rigor and pastry artistry sets b. patisserie apart from bakeries that take shortcuts or rush the process.
Where To Find Them
The main location sits at 2821 California Street at Divisadero, operating Wednesday through Sunday with hours posted on the official website. Weekday closures give the team time to prep and rest, a rhythm that helps maintain quality. The neighborhood location means locals can grab morning pastries without trekking downtown.
Recent expansion has brought b. patisserie’s pastries to new audiences through popups and offshoots. A Hawaii presence and a Union Square kiosk announced in 2025 mean more people can taste what the hype is about. Always check the official site or social channels before visiting, since hours and locations occasionally shift for special events or holidays.
Visiting Tips
Smart visitors arrive early to snag pastries straight from the oven, when layers are at their crispest. Kouign-amann and popular croissants often sell out by mid-morning on weekends, so sleeping in means settling for whatever remains. The small space fills quickly, but turnover moves fast as most customers grab pastries to go.
Whether these treats could truly fool a Parisian remains subjective, of course. Yet b. patisserie’s combination of classical training, meticulous technique, James Beard recognition, and consistent critical praise places it among California bakeries most frequently compared to French standards. Sample the goods yourself and form your own opinion about where they rank.