This Is Why Traverse City Locals Say This Fish Fry Joint Is Michigan’s Best
Walking into Scalawags Whitefish & Chips at 300 E State St, Traverse City, MI 49684 feels like being inducted into a secret society that smells exclusively of malt vinegar and golden batter. Forget the white tablecloths, the vibe here is pure, unpretentious nautical chaos, where the walls are plastered with more lake kitsch than your grandpa’s basement.
Here you’re engaging in a local ritual where the hush puppies are fluffy enough to use as pillows and the coleslaw delivers a crisp, refreshing snap. This legendary whitefish sanctuary in Northern Michigan delivers a masterclass in Great Lakes soul food, serving up the crispiest perch and local catches that have made it a Traverse City cult favorite.
I’ve seen tourists wander in looking for a salad and leave as born-again fried fish evangelists. My field guide below helps you navigate the “order at the counter” pressure like an absolute pro, no stuttering allowed.
Start With The Whitefish Chowder
Steam curls from the cup, and you catch a nose full of dill, butter, and a lake-kissed aroma before the spoon even lands. This isn’t your standard heavy, gloopy clam chowder. At Scalawags, the whitefish is tender and clean, never “fishy,” tucked among cubes of potatoes that miraculously hold their shape.
While saltines are provided for that classic crackle, the broth itself stays velvety, a testament to gentle heat and patient stirring. Scalawags Whitefish & Chips has been praised for this Whitefish Chowder for years, and regulars order it like a secret handshake.
It’s a steady, warming opener that’s perfect for those days when the lunch line moves quickly. If you are feeling particularly ambitious, you can grab a bread bowl, but do so only if you are seriously hungry; the standard baskets are more than generous.
Order The Walleye If You Like Clean, Sweet Flake
The Walleye at Scalawags is the stuff of local legend. It breaks apart in big, clean flakes that are almost sweet to the taste, protected by a batter that whispers instead of shouts. The fry technique is masterfully light, you won’t find any greasy fingerprints left behind on the wax paper.
A quick squeeze of fresh lemon and a swipe of their house Tartar Sauce keep the flavors bright and balanced. There is a long-standing Michigan Tradition of locals ranking the Walleye as the number one choice here, and after one bite, it’s easy to understand why.
If you are indecisive and opting for a combo, make this your anchor. For those looking for a lighter path, you can actually ask for it grilled; they handle the delicate fish with enough respect to keep it moist without the breading.
Since lines can get long on the weekends, use your time in the queue to decide on your sauces so you’re ready when you hit the register.
Perch Fans, This Is Your Basket
There is a specific kind of joy found in the first bite of a Perch Basket. You get that gentle, satisfying snap of a thin, crisp crust yielding to the delicate, buttery fish inside. The seasoning here rides a fine line, salt-forward with a hint of pepper, ensuring the fish remains the headline act.
A lemon wedge finishes the thought without stealing the scene. Yellow Perch is a local fixation in Northern Michigan, and it shows up here with fresh-tasting consistency. If you happen to be salt-sensitive, simply request extra lemon to balance the profile or split a combo with the Walleye.
The portions are large enough to share, a move many regulars employ to save room for sides. Just make sure to grab a stack of napkins before you sit down, because the accompanying fries basically beg for dipping detours.
Respect The Grilled Whitefish Option
While the fryer gets most of the glory, the Grilled Whitefish deserves your full respect. It arrives with a light char and a gentle richness that feels like a lake breeze in entree form. The fillet flakes beautifully, holding its moisture without dripping.
In this preparation, the lemon and Tartar Sauce act as supporting actors, never overwhelming the clean, natural flavor of the catch.
Whitefish is the quintessential regional staple, and while the fried version gets plenty of love, the grilled option often wins the quiet loyalty of locals who return weekly. This is the plate for those who want the clarity of the fish over the crunch of the batter.
To stay in total control, ask for your sauce on the side so you can steer the intensity of each bite. Since seating turns over quickly, have a partner scout a table while your order is being prepped.
Try The Whitefish Perch Combo To Compare Textures
If you can’t decide, the Whitefish Perch Combo makes for a tidy classroom for your taste buds. The Whitefish provides a plush, substantial flake and a mild richness, while the Perch lands brighter and slightly firmer on the palate.
Side by side, you can truly appreciate how the house batter behaves differently on each species of fish. These combos are beloved because they solve decision fatigue instantly. You’ll often see couples sharing one basket and leaving perfectly full, which speaks to the heartiness of the portion sizes.
To maximize the experience, grab a few extra lemon wedges at the counter and alternate bites to keep your palate curious. It’s a fun way to play food critic while enjoying a casual lunch.
Do Not Skip The Hush Puppies
They arrive deep golden and quietly aromatic, the kind of treats that offer a distinct “crack” when you split them open. Inside, the Hush Puppies are tender and slightly dense, boasting sweet corn notes that pair perfectly with a dunk in Tartar Sauce.
Paired with a side of fries, they create an excellent textural duet that completes the fish fry experience. Locals mention these often, and while they are a dense, filling snack, they are an essential part of the Scalawags experience.
If your table is full of snackers, definitely order a couple extra. They disappear remarkably fast and serve as the perfect “appetizer” while you wait for your main baskets to emerge from the fryer.
Coleslaw That Actually Crunches
The Coleslaw here stays remarkably crisp, featuring ribbons of cabbage that snap back rather than wilting into a soggy mess. The dressing leans toward the creamy and slightly sweet side, which serves as a cooling counterpoint when the fryer is working overtime.
If you find the dressing a bit heavy, a quick hit of lemon from the condiment station brightens it right up. A great tip for a balanced bite is to mix a forkful of the slaw with a piece of the Walleye for a bit of contrast. The base vegetables are clearly fresh, which is the most important part of any slaw.
A quick toss before you start eating helps redistribute the sauce and ensures that every bite keeps its crunch intact.
Leverage The Quick Service And Seating Flow
Order at the counter, grab your number, then scan the room like a seasoned local. The nautical decor makes waiting oddly pleasant: old motors, oars, maps, and mounted fish. Staff keep things moving, even when the line reaches the door.
Scalawags sits right downtown, and the lunch rush can crest quickly. Because seating turns fast, patience pays off within minutes. If you are in a group, combine tables only after food is ready.
Parking tip: use the ramp next door and ask for validation at checkout. That small detail makes downtown visits simple. You will be back, and you will brag about the efficiency.
Fried Or Grilled: Choose Your Own Adventure
Two paths lead to the same happy dock. Fried means delicate crunch and warmth that clings, while grilled shows off freshness and clean flakes. Your mood, not dogma, should decide.
This place offers both methods with equal care, which is rarer than it seems. Reviews repeatedly call out properly cooked grilled walleye and perfectly fried perch. Either route showcases local fish without heavy masking.
When in doubt, split a combo so you taste the range. Ask for sauce on the side to keep textures crisp. You will leave sure that technique here is more than a checkbox.
Make Room For Fries And A Second Visit
The fries are the quiet co-star, golden with a soft interior and just enough salt. They are perfect for scooping stray flakes and catching tartar drips. Share if you must, but plan for your own cup of ketchup.
Plenty of travelers stop once, then swing back before leaving town. That makes sense when a menu is tight, consistent, and comforting. The downtown location makes returns easy between errands or beach time.
Order smaller at lunch so you have room for chowder next round. I kept thinking about the walleye hours later and returned the next day. That is how regulars are made, one crisp bite at a time.