This Stone Stairway Trail In Southern Illinois Drops You Down To Clear, Mossy Natural Pools
One hundred twenty-two stone steps separate a gravel parking area from some of the clearest water in Illinois. Workers carved that stairway into a cliff decades ago, and families still count every step on the way down to blue-green creeks and mossy rock pools.
The best part is that walking in costs nothing at all. For anyone hunting a cheap summer outing that feels like a secret, this canyon in far southern Illinois deserves a spot at the top of the list.
A Sandstone Canyon Deep In The Shawnee National Forest
Down in Pope County, near the tiny community of Ozark, the Shawnee National Forest folds itself into a rugged canyon called Bell Smith Springs. It sits along Bell Smith Springs Road, far from any big city, in the hilly corner of southern Illinois that surprises people who think the whole state is flat farmland.
Four natural springs feed the streams here. The water runs through rocky creek beds framed by tall sandstone cliffs, creating wading spots and swimming holes that glow an unusual turquoise color on sunny days.
Officially, the site is a recreation and scenic area managed by the U.S. Forest Service.
It has also earned the title of National Natural Landmark, a label given to places with outstanding geology and plant life worth protecting for future generations.
More than eight miles of connected trails wind through the canyon, leading hikers to boulders, a massive stone arch, and cool pools. Some routes are short and friendly, while others climb and twist through tougher terrain.
For many southern Illinois families, this spot has been a summer tradition for years. It is the kind of place grandparents remember splashing in as kids, and it still feels wonderfully wild today.
Stairs Built By The Civilian Conservation Corps
Back in the 1930s and 1940s, young men from the Civilian Conservation Corps hauled and shaped stone to give ordinary people a way into this canyon. Their handiwork still carries hikers down the cliff face today.
Visitors who have counted describe 61 large, awkward steps followed by another 61 shorter ones. The steps feel almost like part of an old house built right into the bluff, rustic and a little uneven, yet full of charm.
Honestly, going down is the easy half. Plenty of folks laugh about it afterward, because every one of those steps has to be climbed again at the end of a long, splashy day.
Anyone who struggles with stairs should think carefully before planning this route. The inclines from the parking area are considerable, and there is no gentle ramp alternative for the main descent.
Still, the stairway is a big part of the fun. Kids love counting steps out loud, and older visitors often pause to admire how sturdy the stonework remains after all these decades.
It is a small history lesson tucked into a nature walk. Every trip down those steps connects today’s families to the hard-working crews who made this treasure reachable.
Turquoise Pools And Crystal Clear Creeks
Crystal clear barely covers it. In most spots, you can look straight through the water and count pebbles on the bottom, and the color shifts between bright blue and soft green depending on the light.
The main spring area holds cool, clean-looking water that makes a perfect summer swimming hole. Another favorite dip spot sits near Devil’s Backbone, where kids splash while parents relax on the warm rocks nearby.
Braver swimmers climb carved steps to a big rock and leap into a deeper pool. The jump looks higher from the top than it really is, and most people pop back up grinning and ready to go again.
Water levels change a lot with the seasons. Spring rains can swell the creeks to calf-high or deeper, and heavy storms sometimes turn crossings into rushing, impassable streams.
Dry stretches work the other way. Late in some seasons the springs may slow to a trickle, so checking recent weather helps set expectations.
Many regulars like visiting right after a rain, when water tumbles down the rocks in little waterfalls. Summer, though, remains the classic season for getting fully wet and cooling off.
Devil’s Backbone, The Natural Bridge, And Boulder Falls
Giant boulders lined up in the creek bed like the spine of some enormous creature give Devil’s Backbone its dramatic name. Hikers scramble along it, and swimmers gather in the pool beside it on hot afternoons.
Farther along waits the real showstopper. The Natural Bridge is the largest stone arch in the Shawnee National Forest, stretching about 125 feet long and rising 30 feet overhead.
What makes it extra fun is that you can see the arch from below and from the top. Two routes lead up, and one includes a sturdy iron ladder that kids treat like a jungle gym in the woods.
Funny enough, some hikers walk right past the arch without realizing it, because it blends into the surrounding rock. Keep your eyes up and look for daylight shining through stone.
Boulder Falls adds another pretty stop, especially after rainfall when water spills over the rocks. Towering sandstone cliffs surround all of it, shaped slowly over countless years by moving water.
Rock outcroppings invite climbing and exploring everywhere you turn. Together, these formations turn a simple walk into a real adventure that feels far bigger than its free price tag.
Color-Coded Trails And Creek Crossings
Wet shoes are practically guaranteed. Many trails here cross the creek, usually on small stepping stones, so plan on water sloshing around your ankles at least once.
Named routes include the General Area Trail, Sentry Bluff Trail, Natural Bridge Trail, and Mill Branch Trail. Hikers often talk about the blue, yellow, and green markings, and a popular loop combines the blue and yellow paths before heading out on green.
A short 10 to 15 minute hike reaches the main swimming hole, which suits little legs just fine. Longer loops range from moderate to genuinely steep, with some sections that feel tough and rugged.
Here is a helpful tip. Markings can be spotty, and unofficial side paths make navigation confusing, so snap a photo of the trail map at the trailhead before starting.
Rocks get slippery, especially after rain. Sturdy shoes with good grip and plenty of drinking water make the day far more comfortable.
If a path ever feels too close to a cliff edge, look around. Another safer path often runs just a few feet away, and taking it keeps everyone relaxed and happy.
Moss, Ferns, And A Peaceful Family Atmosphere
More than 700 kinds of flowering plants, ferns, and mosses grow in this canyon. Soft green carpets cover rocks, and in spring, wildflowers splash color along the trails.
Families with kids of every age feel right at home. Toddlers as young as one and a half have happily explored the pools, while preteens love climbing boulders and leaping from the jumping rock.
Dogs are welcome too, and four-legged hikers seem to adore the creek crossings. Even cloudy days bring calm, heartwarming views that make people want to linger.
Popularity does come with a catch. Summer weekends can fill the parking lot, bring loud groups, and leave litter behind, which takes away from the quiet beauty.
Arriving early helps enormously. Late morning crowds tend to be light, while early afternoon brings a steady stream of new arrivals.
Visitors can protect the magic by packing out every wrapper and bottle. Interpretive signs along the way share stories about the ecosystem and history, turning a hike into a gentle outdoor classroom.
Treated with care, this place stays peaceful, green, and ready for the next generation of splashing kids.
Getting There, Free Parking, And Redbud Campground
Good news first: parking is free, and exploring the trails and pools costs nothing. That makes it one of the best budget day trips in all of southern Illinois.
Getting there takes patience. The final stretch includes more than a mile of dirt and gravel road with plenty of potholes, so drive slowly, especially without a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Regular cars usually make it just fine at a careful pace. There are several parking spots, but no large lots for RVs or trailers, and big trucks may need to squeeze in.
For overnight stays, nearby Redbud Campground offers first-come, first-served sites for a small fee with easy self-pay. It has a backwoods feel, basic bathrooms, and no showers.
Bathrooms and trash bins sit near the parking area for day visitors. Biking is not allowed on the trails, though kids can pedal around the campground loop.
Pack a picnic, water, towels, and a spare pair of shoes. With gas and snacks, a whole family can enjoy a full day here for well under $30, which feels like a small miracle.
Worth Every Step Back Up
Sore legs, soggy sneakers, and big smiles tend to be the souvenirs from a day at Bell Smith Springs. Few free outings in Illinois deliver this much adventure in one canyon.
Between the historic stone stairway, the glassy turquoise pools, and a towering natural arch, there is plenty to fill a summer afternoon. Spring brings wildflowers and rushing creeks, while warmer months are made for swimming.
Nobody should expect a polished theme park. The road is bumpy, trail markings can be tricky, and busy weekends get crowded, so timing and preparation really matter.
Plan for an early weekday arrival if possible. Bring a printed or photographed map, grippy shoes, and a trash bag to carry out whatever you bring in.
Families who go in with a sense of fun usually leave planning their next trip. Kids brag about the jumping rock, and grown-ups tend to remember the peaceful sound of water over stone.
For Illinois residents craving an affordable, old-fashioned day in nature, this humble corner of Pope County is hard to beat. Just save a little energy for those 122 steps waiting at the end.